On the Water7 min read

Kayaking the Oslofjord with Mad Goats

By Simon, co-founder & captainUpdated

Mad Goats runs three bases in central Oslo: Tjuvholmen, Bjørvika beside the Munch Museum, and Nedre Foss Park on the Akerselva. Guided sea-kayak tours leave from Tjuvholmen, guided river trips from Nedre Foss, and self-service kayaks come off racks at Tjuvholmen and Bjørvika. Self-service requires prior experience, or one of their two våttkort courses first. Booking is online and pickup is by key code.

How the self-service model works

You book online, get a code, unlock a kayak from the rack and paddle out. Nobody meets you at the pier, checks your stroke or comes looking if you take a wrong turn behind Sørenga. In exchange you sign a declaration that you can re-enter a capsized kayak unassisted in open water, and they take that declaration at face value.

Sjøvett is the Norwegian shorthand for the attitude this assumes: know the water you are on and wear the vest without being told. The rental model leans hard on it, and it works because most of the people using the racks grew up around this fjord. If you are visiting and you have never paddled a sea kayak, book the guided tour instead of the code.

Rates in Mad Goats' booking catalogue started at NOK 199 for Bjørvika and NOK 249 for Tjuvholmen when we checked in July 2026. Their Lysaker site rents paddleboards, so kayaks come from Bjørvika and Tjuvholmen only. Their own pages disagree on that, since the våttkort page counts Lysaker as a third rental location while the rental page and the live catalogue list only Bjørvika and Tjuvholmen, and we have gone with the catalogue.

Three bases, three different bodies of water

Tjuvholmen (Lillestranden 10). The same pier we run our boat from. They rent kayaks and paddleboards here, keep a sauna on the quay, and start the guided sea tour from the same dock. You paddle out under the footbridge, past the sculpture park, and you are in open fjord water inside two minutes. It is the most exposed of the three: a strong southwesterly pushes chop against the rock edge, so check the forecast. On a calm morning it is the best-looking launch in the city.

Bjørvika (Opera Gata 49). A self-service rack next to the Munch Museum with no staff on site, so you unlock the kayak yourself. It puts you into the inner harbour basin, calm and sheltered and ringed by new architecture. The route worth doing from here goes out through the canal, past the Opera roof and around the south side of Sørenga. It suits first-time renters still nervous about wind and wake. Hovedøya lies about 800 metres of open water off the basin, and the monastery ruins on it were founded in 1147 by Cistercian monks, according to Store norske leksikon. That crossing puts you across ferry traffic, so it belongs to paddlers who know what they are doing.

Nedre Foss Park (Nordre Gate 2). This one is a meeting point for the river trips, with no rental rack on site. The Akerselva falls 9.8 kilometres from Maridalsvannet to the fjord beside the Opera House, according to Wikipedia's article on the river, past old textile mills, waterfalls, cafes and a surprising amount of green. Mad Goats guide the navigable lower stretch in kayaks or packrafts. Rapids, overhanging branches and a few drops rule out doing it on a key code, which is why this one is a booked tour with an instructor.

Kayaking past the islands on the Oslofjord

The inner Oslofjord on a still morning — the water you paddle from Tjuvholmen

The Fjord City tour

Their flagship sea-kayak trip runs two hours from Tjuvholmen, from NOK 799, with a guide in the water beside you the whole way. The line goes along the central waterfront: Aker Brygge, Akershus Fortress, the Opera House, the Munch Museum. No experience is required and the equipment comes with it, which makes this the one to book if you have never been on open water in a kayak. Most of the groups we pass from the boat in the middle of the day are Fjord City tours working through that loop.

The two våttkort courses

The våttkort is a Norwegian paddling certificate covering rescue technique, navigation and open-water safety. It carries no legal weight. As Mad Goats' own FAQ puts it, no government-issued licence is required to kayak in Norway, but most rental providers will ask for the card before they hand over a single sea kayak.

Mad Goats sell two versions, and the difference matters if your plan is to rent from them afterwards. The introduction course runs two and a half hours at NOK 995 and gives you the basics. The beginner course runs two days and twelve hours at NOK 2,499, and that is the one they say earns you the right to take their kayaks out on your own.

What you can book

OptionWhat it is
Fjord City guided tour2 hours of sea kayaking from Tjuvholmen, guide and equipment included, no experience required, from NOK 799
Akerselva river tourGuided descent of the lower river through central Oslo, packrafts or kayaks, from Nedre Foss Park
Self-service rentalKey-code pickup at Bjørvika (from NOK 199) or Tjuvholmen (from NOK 249), prior experience required
Våttkort introduction2.5-hour sea-kayak introduction, NOK 995
Våttkort beginner course2 days, 12 hours, NOK 2,499; the course that unlocks self-service rental with them
Private eventsGroup bookings, corporate days, bachelor parties, kayak and sauna combined at Tjuvholmen
Booking

madgoats.no

Peak summer weekends book out, so reserve ahead.

Conditions worth checking first

Calm mornings are the window here, the same one the eFoil crowd wants. The inner fjord is often glassy before 11am, and by mid-afternoon the southwesterly builds; paddling in 12 knots of wind against a current is a workout rather than a pleasure. June and early July have the longest light. Late August has the warmest water, which you will appreciate on the day you tip over.

Water temperature matters more here than people expect. Check our live water temperature before you book: under 14°C, a wetsuit becomes sensible for any group.

Practical details

Wear something that can get wet. Guided tours include the kayak, paddle, spray deck and vest. Bring a dry bag for phone and camera, and water shoes if you have them. Sun protection is not optional on a clear day, because glare off the fjord surface does the work of two hours of shoreline sun in half the time.

Book at madgoats.no. For everything else about the Oslofjord, the islands you paddle past, what the water is doing this month and when the light turns gold, try the Explore hub.

Kayak against the other ways out

A kayak puts you closer to the water than anything else in Oslo except swimming, and swimming does not cover distance. You sit at surface level, the bow cuts through six inches from your hands, and sound carries differently down there: paddle drips, a cormorant diving, the wake of a passing ferry arriving as a slow roll two minutes later. Among the alternatives, an eFoil gives you speed with the same quiet, and a sunset cruise covers distance and history in an evening. The kayak is the slow, physical one, and what you get back for the effort is a different quality of attention to the water.

If you want to go further out than a kayak comfortably takes you, past the inner islands and into the deeper water around Steilene and Nesoddtangen where the porpoises feed, a private boat tour covers in an hour what you would paddle all day for. Plenty of our guests do both: kayak in the morning, boat in the evening.

Prices, durations and locations belong to Mad Goats and change. Checked against their booking catalogue and madgoats.no in July 2026.

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